The Consell Regulador del Camí dels Bons Homes (CR-CBH) was constituted in February of 1998 as an autonomous organization from the county councils of El Berguedà and La Cerdanya with its own statutes and government organism.
The CR-CBH was created to integrate, in Catalonia, the public and private institutions and to invigorate the Camí dels Bons Homes.
CR-CBH main objectives:
The CR-CBH is formed by: Diputació de Barcelona Diputació de Lleida Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró Consell Comarcal del Berguedà Consell Comarcal de la Cerdanya Consell Comarcal de l'Alt Urgell Consell Comarcal Solsonès 65 business from the tourist sector.
The medieval atmosphere of Bagà In 1233, the Baron of Pinós chose this place to be the capital of his domain, and the medieval atmosphere can still be felt here now. Plaça Porxada, where the Rice Festival is held and the Rescue of the Hundred Damsels is played out, is presided over by a statue of Galceran de Pinós, which is a creation of the local sculptor, Josep Companyó. Narrow streets climb round the old prison on the way to Palau; this is a restored building that houses the Medieval and Cathar Centre. Bagà is home to the reception centre of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park; this is the largest natural park in the whole country. The centre is worth visiting for its regular exhibitions and the information it provides on the flora and fauna of the area. At Christmas, Bagà holds the torchlit celebration of Fia-Faia. The origins of this festival are unknown, but it is known to be a very old celebration and the same event is also held at the village of Sant Julià de Cerdanyola. River trout are the highlight of local cuisine. Thousands of trout are released from the Bagà fish farm to repopulate Catalonia's rivers. The unpolluted waters of the river Bastareny prove an ideal environment for fish.
Bagà Medieval and Cathar Centre The historic centre of Bagà Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park Reception Centre Sanctuary of Paller Sant Llorenç prop Bagà (Guardiola de Berguedà) The small settlement of Gréixer (Church of Sant Andreu) Village and church of Pedra Church of Sant Serni de Coborriu, near Bellver Church of Santa Maria de Talló, near Bellver
The marked paths of the GR 107, GR 150 and GR 4.2 pass through Bagà, going north to the Sanctuary of Paller and south to Guardiola. It is important to take care and follow the route markers. At Coll del Pendís, the GR 107 crosses the GR 150-1, which follows the ridge. The GR 107-3 is a variant of the main path that diverges at the Cortals de l'Ingla refuge and travels down to Bellver de Cerdanya, passing through the village of Pedra. This variant is longer (over an hour longer), but it is a footpath, whereas the GR 107 follows the track of L'Ingla. Horses and mountain bikes have to follow the main track.
Bellver de Cerdanya — a medieval village set on a hill Founded in 1225, Bellver is located at the crossing point of communications channels: the highroad that follows the course of the river Segre and the Via Bergistana, which comes from Coll de Pendís. Part of the medieval walls still surround the old centre, where the most interesting sights are the square of the Plaça Major, the Town Hall and the Customs House. At the end of the twelfth century Bellver was pillaged by the Count of Foix and the Viscount of Castellbò. In the thirteenth century the Cathars took refuge here. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries there were combats between the rival Nyerros and Cadells factions, and the French occupied the village during the eighteenth century. On 27 April 1937, a group of anarchists from the CNT-FAI tried to enter the village, but without success. Bellver holds an Antiques Fair, the Fair of Sant Llorenç (crafts), the Livestock Fair and the Pyrenean Sports Fair. You can visit the Botanical Garden, the exhibitions at Ca les Monges, the park of Monterròs and Basses de Gallissà. There are also local guides for organised visits. In addition to the path of the Camí dels Bons Homes (Bonshommes Path) from Bellver, it is also possible to join the paths of the Ruta dels Segadors route and the Camí de Sant Jaume path.
After Pedra, the GR 107-4 joins the GR 150. At the Creu de Talló, the GR 150 (the start of the Segadors route) turns off to the left. It is necessary to take care because the section from Bellver to Prullans crosses the road N-260 several times. This section is not finalised. This stage of the route is very long, and it is thus advisable to split it. At Cal Jan de la Llosa there is no refuge, but you can camp in the fields belonging to private houses and tents can be hired. At Portella Blanca there is no drinkable water and there may be snow here between November and March. It is necessary to find out about the conditions on this section and prepare yourself appropriately. At Vall de la Llosa, the GR 107 crosses the GR 11 and the GR 7. Be careful not to take the wrong path.
The last peak of Cathar Country Montsegur, in the French department of Aude, is made up of stone houses in narrow streets at the foot of the castle. This was the setting for one of the final chapters in the persecution of the Cathars. During the middle of the thirteenth century, Montsegur was a refuge for followers of the Cathar faith. The siege of the castle began in May 1243. French troops arrived at Montsegur and laid siege to the whole mountain in order to prevent the entry and exit of provisions, water and people. After some months, in March 1244 the unbearable situation forced the besieged to decide on surrender. The abandonment of the castle started on March 16, with the women and children leaving first, followed by the 'Perfects' and finally the knights and soldiers. At the foot of the mountain is a meadow known as the Prat dels Cremats (Meadow of the Burnt), and those Cathars who didn't wish to renounce their faith were burnt on a bonfire here. Montsegur continues to be more than just a castle, straddling history and legend. The current castle, constructed around 1300 by the victorious persecutors, guides the pilgrim to this site of the lost religion at the peak of this mountain which provides meaning to the study of Cathar country.
Gorges de la Frau Castle of Montsegur
There is nowhere to buy food.
The Mérens horse or "black prince" The Mérens horse — "the black prince" — is a symbol of the region of Ariège. Around the 1960s this horse was on the verge of disappearing, but its numbers are now increasing. Whilst the numbers of other types of livestock in Ariège have been decreasing, the Mérens horse is found all over the world. One illustrious owner is Tony Blair, the British prime minister. In Catalonia there is a society for this breed of horse — the Associació Catalana de Cavalls de Raça Ariegesa. The Mérens horse is a pony that is noble, good-natured, calm, shy, brave, gentle and resistant to changes in climate and terrain. In times gone by it helped farmers, peddlers and smugglers, and now it is ideal for mountain routes with a certain degree of difficulty. A climber, it travels sure-footedly over ground that is slippery, snowy or frozen. It is also used in riding schools and for hydrotherapy. At La Bastide-de-Sérou, the National Mérens Horse Centre has been opened; this is dedicated to breeding and promoting this animal. At Bouvan there is a national competition for the breed in August.
Church of Merenç-de-las-Vals Maison des Loups. Museum dedicated to wolves. Orlú Natural Park
The work of Miracle The Sanctuary of Miracle, where the Virgin appeared to some shepherds in 1458, is located in the municipality of Riner. This is a religious centre made up of a church, a Benedictine monastery, the Casa d'Espiritualitat (Spiritual House) and several shelters. Since the start of the twentieth century, Miracle has been a priory of the abbacy of Montserrat, with a small community of Benedictine monks in residence. Surrounded by a calm and solitary natural environment, it is the ideal spot for rest and meditation. At the church you can admire the grandiose baroque altarpiece from the eighteenth century, built by Carles Morató and gilded by Antoni Bordons, which is considered to be one of the most important in Catalonia. The church is an unfinished work, and so in these parts when something has dragged on for a while, the locals say: "It will go on longer than the work at Miracle."
This section, from the Sanctuary of Miracle to Solsona, is not particularly difficult. It is very flat and follows the route of the GR 7. It is necessary to carry water with you. At the square of the Sanctuary of Miracle there is a water fountain with drinking water.
Talc, the principal extractive industry in Ariège With the majority of mines and quarries in the area having been closed, the talc of Luzenac constitutes the main source of mineral wealth in Ariège; the talc is extracted from an open-shaft mine in the Massís Tabe, at an altitude of 1,800m. This mineral exploitation started in the middle of the nineteenth century and it has been calculated that there are reserves to last for another 100 years from now. 4300,000 tons are currently extracted annually. The raw material is extracted from May to October and then transported to the crushing and processing plant at Luzenac, which is slightly up from Ax-les-Thermes. There are currently 300 workers permanently employed in this industry, with over 100 temporary staff taken on during the months of extraction. The 18 varieties of talc are used in products as diverse as paper products, paints, plastics, cosmetics and food. The Luzenac Group is the leading world producer of this product, with subsidiaries in Europe, America and Australia.
Basin de Ladres. Termes de Ladres. Ax-les-Thermes Castle of Montaillou
At Orgeix there is nowhere to buy food or sleep. It is necessary to travel to Orlú (2 km) or Ax-les-Thermes (3 km).
Mouflons, the ancestors of sheep Mouflons from Corsica were introduced by the French at Carlit Massif in 1957. There are currently numerous herds of mouflons grazing all over the massif, as well as in the Querol Valley and the area of Pimorent. Recent studies show that there is competition between mouflons and izards (a type of chamois), who are pushed towards less hospitable terrain. It is a real experience to come across a mouflon and admire its gait and agility as it traverses mountainous terrain. L'Ospitalet, near Andorra In the past, travellers crossing between the valleys of Ariège and Querol had to cross Coll del Pimorent, at an altitude of 1,920 metres, where climatic conditions made the route difficult. It was for this reason that King Louis XI had a hospice built in the fifteenth century in order for travellers to be able to take refuge. The same king also ordered the building of the hospices of Sant Joan de la Perxa and Coll de Jou, near the village of Bagà. Several houses were built around L'Ospitalet, and over time these formed small settlement that currently exists.
The variant path GR 107-2 is suitable for walkers. For those on bicycles or horses, it's better to stick to the main path of the GR along the Ariège Valley.
QUERALT – GÓSOL
The Camí dels Bons Homes starts at the sanctuary of Queralt, just in front of the square. The church was renovated in the eighteenth century. One of the castles of the rowdy troubadour Guillem de Berguedà is located here. The iron and glass portal and the bell-tower that imitates a defence tower are works of the architect Coderch de Sentmenat. The church, which Jacint Verdaguer called ‘the pearl of the Catalonian sanctuaries’, is the principal place of worship in the county. For many years the priest here was the writer Josep M. Ballarín. The image is from the fourteenth century; a swallow was placed on the hand in 1916. L'himne de la Coronació of Queralt includes music from Antoni Ribera, a notable Wagnerian who directed at the festivals of Bayreuth. It is planned to add accommodation and a restaurant to the sanctuary. The panorama that can be seen all along the path that runs around the mountain is highly impressive. Below Queralt is the city of Berga.
It is possible to walk from Berga to the Sanctuary of Queralt. It takes about fifty minutes following the PR C-73 (a path signalled with yellow and white markers), which leaves from the square of Plaça de Sant Francesc. The stage from Berga to Gósol is too long to be completed in a single day. This stage can be split by spending the night at Casanova de les Garrigues, or at Fumanya (the PR C-73 leaves from Peguera and goes to Fígols, passing through Fumanya, where there is accommodation) or by making a vehicle transfer from Peguera. Between Berga and Gósol you will see the path GR 107-1 (a variant of the main path) which passes through Bonner and which can be followed on horseback or mountain bike. The route going to Coll del Portet or Ferrús is only suitable for walkers.
The city of tranquillity Solsona grew up around the castle and the monastery. In 1594, King Philip II granted Solsona city status, and a year earlier the bishopric was created. It maintains the same structure as it had in the days when it was a walled city with five entry portals, of which three remain (Pont, Castell and Llobera). One of the most symbolic buildings of Solsona is its gothic Cathedral, where the image of Mare de Déu del Claustre is worshiped, this being a stone carving from the twelfth century. The small squares and streets of the old town hold their own special attraction. It is possible to buy the unique knives that are made in Solsona, and you can also visit the Museum of Knives and Cutting Tools. Solsona folklore is noted for its majesty. The dances of the giants, the horses, the eagle, the dragon, the mule and the sticks have all kept the same essence since the seventeenth century. The Solsona Carnival, considered to be an event of national interest, is notable for being different from other carnivals; the mad giants and the hanging donkey are irreplaceable parts of the Solsona Carnival.
From Solsona you start the next stage of the GR 7, which joins Solsona and Sant Llorenç de Morunys, but you have to leave this after a short distance in order to continue towards Timoneda (Lladurs) and Odèn, from where you can follow the GR 1 as far as Sant Llorenç de Morunys, passing through Canalda and Coll de Jou, where there is a fountain with drinking water.
Where the source of the river Cardener is found Sant Llorenç de Morunys is a settlement that was founded within the shelter of the old monastery, whose existence is documented as far back as the ninth century and which still has the impressive baroque chapel of Mare de Déu dels Colls and an organ which is used for concerts in summer. The Sanctuary of Lord is found close to Sant Llorenç de Morunys; the sanctuary, which provides a magnificent panorama over the valley, can be reached on foot by climbing some steps. The source of the river Cardener is not far from the settlements of La Coma and La Pedra, in beautiful natural surroundings; there is a leisure area here. Following the course of the river, you will come across Font Puda, which provides pure, medicinal waters that are well known for their curative properties. Further along its course, the river forms the reservoirs of La Llosa del Cavall and Sant Ponç. La Coma and La Pedra are two small villages which are known for the ski-station of Port del Comte and the fountains of Cardener; make sure you visit the pretty old quarter here.
There is drinking water at both Font Puda and the fountains of Cardener. In summer, you can refresh yourself at Font Puda.
Herbal remedies and dried flowers at Tuixén At Tuixén, you must visit the Trementinaires museum (travelling herbal healers). The herbal healers left Tuixén in pairs and set off on routes that could take months to complete in order to sell homemade remedies. The last trip made by a herbal healer was that of Sofia d'Ossera in 1982. It is also worth visiting the shop Herbes del Cadí, owned by Josep Badia, an expert in the location of flora and its uses in remedies. He specialises in dried flowers in frames and guided walks. The Cathar refuge and the cinematographic studio of Josa de Cadí The presence of Cathar communities at Josa and Castellbó has been studied and documented. At Josa, the church was constructed on the ruins of the castle, and some vestiges of this still remain. You can also visit the Escarols cave, where, legend has it, the Cathars who survived burning by the French came to hide out. In August, Josa hosts Cathar conferences, with interesting speakers and guided tours. Josa was also used for shooting part of the film Pau i el seu germà (Pau and His Brother), by Marc Recha, a filmmaker who is highly respected in France and who has presented various pieces of his work at Cannes.
At Tuixén several GRs converge. From one side there is the GR 107-3, which comes from Gósol, and from the other comes the GR 7, which approaches from La Seu d'Urgell and continues on to Coll de Port, and there is also the GR 150. It is necessary to take great care. The track from Tuixén to Josa and Gósol crosses the river Josa and follows the road for almost four kilometres. It is planned to rehabilitate the old track and thus avoid the section running along the road. At Josa de Cadí there is nowhere to sleep or buy provisions. There is just one restaurant.
• Consell Regulador del Camí dels Bons Homes • Centre d’Interpretació Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró • Oficina d’Informació Turística del Berguedà • Oficina d’Informació Turística de la Cerdanya • Oficina d’Informació Turística de l’Alt Urgell • Oficina d’Informació Turística del Solsonès • Oficina d’Informació Turística de Berga • Centre de Muntanya de Gósol • Oficina d’Informació Turística Bellver de Cerdanya • Oficina d’Informació Turística de Puigcerdà • Oficina d’Informació Turística de Vallées d’Ax • Oficina d’Informació Turística de Montsegur • Sentiers Transfrontaliers Pyreneens