Crossing the Pyrenees following in the footsteps of the Cathars

Around 5pm on the longest day of the year, the trusty red and white stripes that we had been following for eleven days came to an end near Santuari de Queralt. The small square was deserted and the views were all ours, and like miniature buildings on a plotting board, the town of Berga unfolded down below us. A further 3km separated us from the shower and food, and with aching legs and a heavy heart, we descended to town. Walking dominated the previous eleven days, and life was simple but satisfying on the trail.

Our Catalan friends pointed out that Santuari de Queralt above Berga was not the finishing point but the start of the Camí dels Bons Homes (GR107) trail, but as it follows the route believed to have been taken by the Cathars fleeing France in the 13th and 14th centuries, it felt right that we started the trek from Foix. We climbed to the remains of Château de Roquefixade, wandered among the ruins Château de Montségur and walked through quiet hamlets. But before long, we were climbing the slopes of the Pyrenees and on the seventh day, we reached Portella Blanca, where France, Andora, and Spain meet. Descending from the col, we found a rock by the rushing stream and had a picnic lunch with better views than any posh restaurant could ever offer. We crossed mountain streams, watched a pair of Pyrenean chamois skilfully navigate the steep slope, and spotted some playful marmots.

We wandered the narrow cobbled streets of Bellver de Cerdanya and Baga and walked across the Cadí Moixeró range with some great views of Pedraforca to the tiny village of Gósol. The planning and preparations start weeks, if not months, before any long distance trek, but this journey started a year previously in Gósol when we first saw the GR107 trail sign while exploring other trails in the area. After some research, it soon became obvious that we should walk the Camí dels Bons Homes trail that connects towns and villages with Cathar history, and almost exactly a year after we first noticed the GR107 signs, we were back in Gósol.

After visiting the ruins just outside the village, we settled in a bar in the main square, not far from the building that housed an inn where Picasso spent the summer of 1906. And then in the morning of the eleventh day, we left Gósol early and reached Berga in the late afternoon.

Our journey could not have been more different than the Cathars', who crossed the Pyrenees from France to Catalonia some 800 years before us. We followed the signposted paths and were spoiled with delicious evening meals, and our hosts packed plenty of food that kept us going all day on the trail. For eleven days, we only had to focus on walking and admiring the landscape.

It was a great pleasure to walk and gather all the information about the trail for the Trekking the Camí dels Bons Homes guidebook, and we hope that walkers who embark on this amazing journey will enjoy the trail as much as we did.

During the final descent to Berga, I had already known that I was going to miss the trail; it's breathtaking landscape, friendly people, and amazing food.

Nike Werstroh

We invite you to see our journey in this video of the Path of Good Men.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgCqJwtR_0

The Ciceron's Guidebook is t is already on sale, the result of the work done by Nike and Jacint, and you can get it here! !  ( This guidebook is only in english)